The good news is we have algaecides that can be used to get rid of the problem growth. The bad news is it will come right back unless you fix the “real” problem(s). If you have that much algae that you need to maintain the pond with an algaecide, there is a bigger problem that you are not addressing. The primary causes of excessive algae growth would be high nitrates and phosphates, too much sun or too shallow a pond with little circulation, too many fish, over feeding, too little filtration, and I could go on. But you need to take a look at the real problem if you are to ever have any lasting relief in your pond. I reserve chemical use as an “intervention”, for emergencies rather than for maintenance. And if the emergency does arise, we have Microbe-Lift/Algaway 5.4 which is safe for fish and plants and EPA registered.

What constitutes an algae emergency? That would be a condition of filamentous growth in which everything is being crowded out, filter mechanisms clogged, and in general, the pond begins to look more like a sump than an ornamental fish pond (or water garden) (and begins to smell). Short of that, I would suggest using Microbe-Lift/PL and ML/Sludge Away to clean any seen or unseen debris on the bottom if you do not have a bottom drain. Any organic waste in the system is fodder for algae growth. There’s Microbe-Lift/Barley Straw Pellets and ML/Barley Straw Concentrated Extracts (one contains peat and one does not) to tie up those nutrients that primarily feed the algae. These are natural approaches to algae control rather than chemical maintenance and will not harm your filter bacteria. Remember, prevention is easier than the cure. For the amount of fish to stock, you should have at least 10 gallons of filtered, aerated water per fish inch of koi and 8.5 gallons per fish inch of goldfish or Shubunkin, and that doesn't even include the amount of waste produced by frogs. I would suggest you have no less than 1,500-gal for your crew. Anything less, you will definitely have algae problems.  ou should have good filtration that can handle the load. The troublesome algae may really be a life-saver, whether you realize it or not, by taking up nutrients that can build to toxic levels over time, if you do not do regular water changes. You need to do water tests, water changes when nutrient levels are too high, and check on the stocking density of your pond, for your own peace of mind.

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

Prior to KHV, a spring Aeromonas outbreak was the worst thing we could imagine in our koi ponds. We learned that through good pond husbandry most of the Aeromonas infections can be circumvented. Aeromonas breaks out during temperature changes, spring and fall, in water temperatures of 45-62ºF. This is because your fish's immune systems are not fully functioning but the Aeromonas bacteria are! In just a few degrees higher, the fish will have caught up to the bad guys. But, when the occasional fish or two show up with obvious ulcers, what will you do? Do you throw a lot of medicines into the pond? Or do you quarantine the affected fish, treat with POND SALT, and raise the temperature in the hospital tank? At 65ºF the fish will be eating, so feed them medicated food. Medicated food will sink, so do not feed them any floating foods during this time. You want them hungry enough to look “down” for their sustenance. In serious cases, a veterinarian may be needed to assist with injectable antibiotics. (You DO have a quarantine tank, don't you??)

Did you remember to add ML/TheraP to your pond, to stimulate the immune systems of your fish? Are you adding PL to keep a cleaner environment? You should be. Your fish have nowhere else to go if their living space is “too dirty” to be habitable. When your water temperature is above 55-60ºF, if you have any rocks on the bottom, or if you have no bottom drain, it's time to begin using Sludge Away (along with the PL and TheraP). It isn't the amount of plants in your pond that make it healthy. It's the unseen bacteria. Come to think of it, we have bacteria and trace element products to make your plants work harder, taking more nutrients out of the water. So, for those of you who are water gardeners, use Ensure and Bloom & Grow to get the most out of your plants WITHOUT feeding the algae.

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

In spring your fish will face many stresses: the weather, predators, parasites and disease, to name a few. I’m sure (when temperatures dictate) your fish will once again start swimming at the surface, nibbling algae off the sides of the pond. Most likely some of you will dig out some of last year’s leftover fish food. One of the biggest spring problems is the fluctuating temperatures, the uncertainty of tomorrow’s weather. Although we are never sure what the following day (or the next hour) will bring, spring can throw seemingly-summer days followed by blizzards. It is not the time to start feeding the fish. Once your area is reliably frost-free, you can consider starting to feed, preferably with a wheat-germ-based food. Your fish do not have the brain process that tells them (at least not accurately!) when they are hungry. They are foragers, always eating small amounts, in their natural environment. Think of them as a herd of cattle, grazing all day and into the night. Their stomach is an elongated intestine which will continue to process today’s food for the next 3-4 days before it is empty. Of course, that is at 60-70F temperatures, not 45-50F. At lower temperatures the whole process will slow down and eventually cease altogether. This is the reason not to feed on a nice sunny day in March or April, if there is any chance of the temperatures dropping again. Your fish do not benefit from a “full stomach” as you do, but will benefit more from being able to extract nutrients from that food you fed them over the next few days.

The next problem is last year’s fish food. By this time it has lost a lot of its nutritional value, as amino acids break down in a relatively short period of time. This is especially true if the food was not vacuum-sealed when it was new. Freezing foods can disrupt molecules and reduce nutrition, so freezing is not recommended either. Fat content in old food can become rancid, too, which may not even be noticeable to you, but your fish can become sick from eating it. The best rule of thumb is to purchase new food every season to be sure you aren’t neglecting, or even harming your fish.

As much as we look forward to spring, when the crocuses poke through and are replaced by daffodils and tulips, we do not look forward to our warm weather “friends”- mosquitoes.  Many people still insist they will never contract West Nile Virus or their dogs and cats won’t become heartworm victims.  But they do.  Here in southwest Florida, mosquitoes never really go away.  On any warm day, just like magic, they are back.  The most effective natural control for mosquitoes is Bti bacteria, or Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis.  They do not attack mosquito larvae.  The Bti mind their own business but produce sweet sugar-like crystals that mosquito larvae just love to eat.  It is these crystals that kill mosquito larvae. Our Biological Mosquito Control (BMC) is quicker and cleaner than any other brand on the market.  It can be used in a sprayer for large open field areas.  It is completely safe (hasn’t harmed my dogs who drink out of the pond) for other wildlife, fish and plants.  In fact, it’s only the mosquitoes and some small black flies that are even interested in those crystals, or small enough to ingest them to be affected.  Mosquitoes are more likely to breed in your clogged gutter and plant saucers than your pond, but with some care, all our families can be safer this year from diseases carried by these vectors.  MICROBE-LIFT/BMC, safe and effective! 

NOTE: MICROBE-LIFT/BMC IS NOT AVAILABLE IN CANADA

* MICROBE-LIFT/Super Activated Carbon will remove liquefied impurities (tannin from leaves in the pond) from your pond water.

* MICROBE-LIFT/PL Gel works best when stored in refrigeration.

* MICROBE-LIFT/Test Strips will make water testing simple, letting you know when to do water changes.

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

Ecological Laboratories, Inc. has a new face in Cape Coral, Florida; in accordance with our name, we have landscaped to conserve precious water supplies!  Ecological Laboratories cares about the environment, which is why we not only used native plants that will grow in the SWF heat, but over time, will conserve water.  It is beautiful!  This is the same technology we apply to the entire MICROBE-LIFT product line.  MICROBE-LIFT/PL is still the mainstay of every pond and ML/Sludge Away will accelerate removal process, especially in ponds that are lined with stones.  Last month, you heard about Sabbactisun and Parazoryne.  This month, we present ML/AQUA-EXTREME, which will detoxify the nitrite, remove and detoxify chlorine and ammonia, detoxify copper and heavy metals, destroy chloramines, add essential electrolytes, boost alkalinity, add a 3-part slime coat replacer, help reduce stress, and instantly age pond water. We also have Legacy Big Bites Summer Staple food for your larger koi.  If you like the Big Bites in Summer Staple, we’ll see about making the others for your BIG pond pets.  Less is more, and sometimes, bigger is really better.  I have a few large koi.  They often miss the smaller pellets, thereby missing half their meal.  With Big Bites, they will be fed less and actually eat more.

A koi show is a family venue, fun for all members of the family- something for every age.  It is important to teach the younger children not to pet other people’s fish, however, or they could unwittingly be spreading disease.  (It was at a koi show in 1998 that the dreaded KHV first reared its ugly head.  The result was many ponds wiped out, many koi died.  Nobody knew what happened.)  We haven’t achieved a cure for this disease yet, so we need to always be alert…  Most show fish only have to face ammonia spikes in their tanks over the weekend, but you never know!  Fish are living animals and deserve our care, if we choose to keep them.  MICROBE-LIFT products will help make that a more enjoyable event for you and your family.  Use MICROBE-LIFT/AQUA-EXTREME to safely fill the pond.  Use ML/Nite-Out II to start up the pond with Nitrifying bacteria.  And, use ML/PL to get the pond balanced and keep it clean.

* Koi have pharyngeal teeth to chew their food?  Way back in their throats, they are able to chew up any food that is still too large to swallow.  This is something that sets koi apart from other pond fish.

* Koi grow to 36 inches, or more, in their lives.

* Fancy goldfish will need to be treated for parasites and worms after they come into this country.  Always quarantine new fish, no matter how good they look when you buy them.  ML/Praziquantel is the recommended treatment.

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

Since some people would rather not use chemicals at all, MICROBE-LIFT, noted forerunner in using earth-friendly solutions to pond problems will be introducing Sabbactisun and Parazoryne, two all natural expellants to stimulate your fishes' immune system and protect from pathogenic bacterial infection.  Sabbactisun is effective against such bacterial diseases as: bacterial dropsy, fungus, milky skin, fin/tail rot, ulcers, bulging eyes, raised scales and mouth rot.  These herbal water conditioners will allow the fish to self-heal!  How about parasitic diseases?  The Parazoryne is effective against these:  white spots, Costia, flukes, Trichodina, Oodinium and Chilodonella through its amazing natural immune-stimulating properties!    Did I mention it is safe for all fresh and brackish water species and will not color the water or create a resistance in these targeted diseases/parasites??  It is environmentally friendly and safe for your nitrifying bacteria and aquatic plants. So, look for these two ground-breakers in the near future at an independent MICROBE-LIFT dealer near you.

MICROBE-LIFT/Super Activated Carbon is not only a selective filtering media; ours is the elite of all carbons, hence the name "super-activated".   Carbons absorb certain types of molecules and catalyze others.  It absorbs gases & liquids.  It removes iodine, phenols, tannins, and helps remove chlorine and some hydrocarbons.  Super-Activated carbon lasts longer and is able to remove more of the targeted pollutants.  It will not filter out metals or salts effectively, so it won't remove iron, magnesium, phosphates, potassium or any trace elements essential to fish and plant growth.  It also won't remove sodium, so is safe to use with salt.  The primary reason I recommend using this product in pond filters would be to take out the liquefied impurities, or tea-color that may be a result of leaves breaking down in your system, and any chemicals that have been sprayed in your area that do not belong in the pond.  Most pond owners want clean, CLEAR water.  It can also remove medications, so add Super-Activated Carbon after treating to remove residual chemicals.  Go to www.microbelift.com for more information on any of our products.  Personally, Carolyn is also using this very superior type of carbon (charcoal) in her aquarium filter!  It lasts longer and does a better job than the competition.  This is THE product for "clear" water.

* All organisms need trace amounts of copper, nickel and zinc, essential for survival.  However, they can easily reach toxic levels in the pond or aquarium, without water changes, as needed.  Water should be tested regularly.

* All fish need (trace) iodine for metabolism.  We use non-iodized salt in ponds to prevent toxicity, which will affect beneficial bacteria, in certain concentrations.

* Large-bodied fancy goldfish are best over wintered indoors if you live in the north.  Single-tailed, comets will do very well outside, in the pond, all year 'round.

* Algae differ from terrestrial plants in that a single cell contains all it needs to grow and reproduce.  Therefore a minute particle can regrow the entire plant. 

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

Winter algae is no more dangerous to your pond than summer, with one big difference—it is a basic food source for the fish when water temperatures hit brief warm spells and you are not feeding them.  You’re not supposed to feed below 50F, right?  So, what if the water is 45F and the fish look hungry?  They should have sufficient algae to sustain them through the winter months when they need much less energy to survive.  I don’t recommend using an algaecide this time of year if you are north of the Mason-Dixon Line.  Southern ponds may feel free to use MICROBE-LIFT/ Algaway 5.4 to minimize the algae growth in their ponds.  I just used it in my 75-gallon fish tank (fancy goldfish are dirtier than koi!) and have a nice clean tank again—no more algae to take away from the looks of the fish.

Goldfish do well in 16 hours of daylight and 8 hours of darkness--Prefer temperatures in the high 70’s (Fahrenheit)-- And they need heavy filtration if kept in a fish tank rather than an outdoor pond. 

The large-bodied fancy Chinese goldfish will easily develop swim bladder problems if they take in too much oxygen, so always feed sinking foods.  [I feed mine MICROBE-LIFT/Sinking Pellets exclusively, with frozen red worms as a treat once or twice a month.]  The Nitrite removing bacteria (Nitrobacter) need oxygen and are sensitive to water conditions, such as too warm or cold, salt, and any medications.  Try to keep the Carbonate Hardness (stabilizes pH) around 7.4, which is ideal.  Oxygen of 8ppm and above is desirable.  Total Alkalinity should be 100ppm or more to keep the pH stable for longer periods of time, but should not exceed 300 ppm.  More is not always better!  With well water, my fish had a terrible time with General Hardness (mineral content) which includes calcium and magnesium carbonate.  I lost fish when it exceeded 300ppm.

*Use MICROBE-LIFT/Aquarium Balancer, Special Blend and TheraP for most water conditions and have a healthy tank.

* An overstocked pond can be created by fish growth.
* Those brown fish in your pond are Magoi, or koi throwbacks, and do not develop colors later in life.
* Koi can take pH that rises, but hate it when it drops!  PH crashes kill fish…

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

I get calls all the time asking about MICROBE-LIFT/Autumn Winter Prep directions.  It’s easier than it looks folks.  All you need to do is start the liquid portion of this product when the pond water temperatures are in the 50-55F range.  The time to think about adding the water soluble dry packets (included in the package) is when the leaves are already falling from trees in your area.  This packet contains cellulase enzyme and cellulase enzyme producing bacteria.  These bacteria are psychrophilic, or cold-weather bacteria.  They speed up breakdown and removal of any leaf debris that blows or falls into your pond over the winter months.  There are two primary ways to apply AWP:  either simply toss the packet(s) into the pond, where it will dissolve by itself, or mix it into a bucket of warm water until dissolved completely, and then apply around the perimeter of the pond for good coverage.  What you see is the bran base, not the bacteria, so if your fish eat it, there’s no harm being done.  Other good winter preparation after a good cleaning would be to check for leaks and decide whether to cover the pond for winter.  If you decide to turn off pumps and filters, remember to drain the water out of any above-ground utilities before they freeze or they will crack.  Ecological Laboratories, Inc is coming out with Praziquantel so you can treat your pond annually in spring for flukes and worms without harming the filter.

Your water is pure, no pollutants.  However, everything that is attracted to water (dust, pollen, leaves, organic and inorganic matter) in addition to whatever is being produced by pond inhabitants, is building up in the water.  Evaporation cannot remove these.  The only way to remove these pollutants (and replace minerals) is through water changes.  The biggest fish I ever saw received a lot of water changes.  Japanese koi farmers use the terms “old” and “new” water to describe what we are talking about with doing water changes as it impacts your pond.  It is not necessary to “waste” water by sending it down the drain when doing a water change.  Set up a RECYCLE program for your pond water.  Half the country is not concerned about wasting water while the other half (or two thirds) is in drought at present.  The state of Georgia has banned use of garden sprinklers, so something else must be done to the changed-out pond water for the sake of your fish.  With lower water tables, more disinfectants will be added to drinking water, so please be careful.  Ecological Laboratories, Inc. is coming out with more new water products:  look for AQUA XTREME, use Super-Activated Carbon, and when needed, use Vitamins & Amino Acids to replace important nutrients removed by water purification systems!

When I arrived home from the San Antonio koi show, my fish were unaccountably stressed, as evidenced by the “bleeding” fins.  I immediately thought nitrites or ammonia.  But I did water tests and everything was perfect.  The only thing that was high was phosphate levels.  Then I took a sample to the lab and found TDS (total dissolved solids) of 1800+.  My water was crystal clear, but becoming toxic due to the drought, I assumed.  However, once I had a “reason” I knew what to do.  I added a media bag filled with Barley Straw Pellets to the pond.  It took about 1 ½ to 2 days for the fish to de-stress.  Barley Straw with peat will chelate any toxic minerals such as zinc, copper, and even phosphate that is in the water. 

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

I’ve just read a report by http://WestNile.ca.gov (California West Nile Virus Website) and noted the numbers of people affected.  They reported 164 human cases in 23 counties, with 10 fatalities (so far).  They show a total of 48 counties affected by West Nile Virus.  I am also a horse-lover.  They report 16 horses to date, with 5 fatalities, in 9 counties.  This is very distressing news!  It should also be distressing for pond owners… since everyone is looking suspiciously at any bodies of water as potential breeding sites.  With 673 positive mosquito samples, in 22 counties, collected by the government workers, how serious is this to you?  Is your government throwing tax dollars in the millions at this problem, with little measurable success?  So, in addition to being distressing it is also very frustrating.

EVERYONE should be using larvacides on their property.  There are natural Bti larvacides that will not build up toxic layers in the soil, as chemicals will, and are very effective in eliminating the developing mosquito larva.  Chemicals will leave a residue that builds up over time and does not break down.  Microbe-Lift/BMC contains the live Bti bacteria.  BMC can be prepared and applied with a sprayer, so why are your governments not using it?  The liquid should be used as a spray to cover all areas of your yard, including potted plants (and the pond).

Do mosquitoes only breed in standing water?  No, they will breed in any moist area, flower pot tray or bird bath.  I’ve found the larvae in my vortex filters where the fish do not go.  If you look closely, very closely, you can most likely find them in and around your water lilies too.  They will cling to the bottoms of the lily pads and stems until disturbed.  Fish will not eat them once they are large enough to eat regular pellets.  Mosquitoes simply do not provide enough protein, so the fish don’t even bother.  Just because you have fish in the pond is no assurance of having no mosquitoes emerging from your pond.  Look around the edges of the pond and in amongst the rocks that line the pond.  You will find them.  Always use bug-spray when going into the garden and use the only liquid, “rapid response” Bti, MICROBE-LIFT/BMC, to get rid of them in 12-24 hours, before they fly off in search of food.

The “heat is on” for pond owners in California right now!  And California is not the only one…

NOTE: MICROBE-LIFT/BMC is not available in Canada.

My goldfish have taken up a routine of spawning every two weeks in the tank, but with no spare tank, there will be no babies this year.  Feeding the big-bodied goldfish requires special care.  These fish are prone to swim bladder problems if they take in too much surface oxygen while feeding.  This is why I feed only MICROBE-LIFT/Legacy Sinking koi & goldfish food.  It has all the scientific nutritional requirements, is very palatable, and SINKS, so my fish won’t bloat after feeding.  Since I began feeding the sinking food to the goldfish, I’ve found it even more successful in feeding my koi.  I no longer have food being trapped in the skimmer.  The fish get ALL the food and therefore all the benefits.  I’m actually feeding less and enjoying my pond more. When given a choice of floating and sinking (combination) food, they immediately follow the floating food down to the bottom FIRST.  Why am I surprised?  Koi are bottom feeding fish.  They still race over to greet me where I can inspect and enjoy them.  They know who feeds them.

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

Across the country I can see we are having floods in Texas and Illinois; fires in Idaho, Florida and Georgia; drought in Colorado and even some flash floods in New York…?  Well, what does this do for your fish?  And what can you do about it?  For starters, these are our “charges” and members of the family, so they need to be taken care of.  When the water temperatures reach 85F, it’s time to consider feeding only Microbe-Lift/Legacy Cold Weather wheat germ food, once a day.  If it reaches 88, 89, or 90F, you should discontinue feeding until the temperatures drop again.  If your area is flooding, an overflow pipe will be important, and a net over the top to KEEP FISH IN the pond would be a really good idea.  A spare pump to take water out of the pond can be very helpful in emergencies.  When more rain is expected you can prepare by dropping the water level in advance.  Keep using Microbe-Lift/PL, Sludge Away and TheraP to help maintain a more stable and clean environment for the fish.  Anything that washes into the pond must come out.  Those in drought areas, unable to do water changes, will need to seriously cut back on feeding, and definitely use the Microbe-Lift/PL or HC to maintain the best water quality.

Some of you know I bought two fancy goldfish.  Well, one has died already.  Like they say, it’s the expensive fish that die, never the cheap ones.  Because they all came from the same breeder (there were four of them, two were gifts) I didn’t think to do any quarantine.  Bad idea.  Always quarantine new fish, no matter what.  Do it for the sake of the fish.  My mistake just cost one fish its life.  The quarantine should be 21 days, consisting of salt (0.1%-0.3%), heat and good filtration.  The fish should be monitored for any changes or signs of trouble.  They should be fed Microbe-Lift/Legacy Medicated Antibacterial Food for at least 5 days.  Water changes should be done weekly and the Koi Cocktail (Pond Fish Parasite Treatment, Pond Fish Wound Healant, Pond Fish Anti-fungal Treatment, and Pond Fish Protectant—mixed together in equal amounts and then dosed as you would for any one product) should be used to complete the treatment and acclimation process.  It could save a life! 

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

Even customers in northern regions have been calling with temperatures in the high 90’s.  [Whereas A/C might be a luxury up north, it is standard and built into every home in SW Florida where we know how to stay cool.]  The heat presents another stress to your fish, especially in shallow ponds.  Don’t worry about the algae in this heat.  Take a look at how you are feeding your fish and whether there is an ordinance preventing the weekly water change.  Always refer to the water temps, not air temps, even in direct sun.  When water temps reach 85F, cut back to feeding only 1-2 times daily and switch back to Legacy Cold Weather (Wheat Germ) food.  Fish don’t metabolize well at extreme temperatures, either high or low.  At 90F, stop feeding.  It can stress the fish to use that energy trying to absorb nutrients.  Wait until the water temps return to 85F and below to resume feeding high protein foods.  Also provide plenty of aeration and add Microbe-Lift/TheraP for the health of your pets.  Wherever possible, do 25% water changes weekly and we’ll get through the heat safe and sound.
VACATIONING, WITH PONDS 
Leaving your pond with a babysitter can be stressful to you as well as the fish.  Some suggestions for a safe vacation (for your fish) are:

* Package individual portions, marked for each day/time, so the sitter can’t overfeed.  Move all other foods where they won’t be seen. (Less is definitely more in this case.)

* Do a 50% water change the day before leaving on vacation, clean the filter, add PL and TheraP, and salt to 0.1% (1 lb per 100 gallons) with Microbe-Lift Therapeutic Pond Salt.

* Arrange for a trusted friend or KHA to stop by to check on the fish and leave the name and number of these person/persons, so the sitter can contact them in case of power outage or other emergency.

* Add an additional aerator, bubbler to the pond and disconnect any fountains that could drain the pond if blown over.

Praziquantel is perhaps the ONE medication for worms and flukes/parasites for your pond fish that will NOT kill your filter bacteria.

Nitrifying bacteria can’t do the job in low pH conditions.  They need at least pH 7.0.

Fountain Clear has bacteria and natural chemical chelating agents to tie up the calcium and magnesium ions so they cannot react with other compounds to form the hard deposits.  This chelating agent is natural and biodegradable so it can be used in a pond.

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

Microbe-Lift/ PL, Microbe-Lift/ Nite-Out II, and Calcium Montmorillonite Clay, to name a few, are not really new.  I was using these products in the pond up in NY.  I was also using ML/ Barley Straw Concentrated Extract to tie up nutrients… (Nitrates and phosphates are the ones that create most of the green chaos in ponds this time of year)… and I continue to do so in my new pond in Florida.  When adding fish to a new pond, I didn’t have to worry about chlorine and chloramine in the water- I’m on well water.  But I did have to get some Nitrifying bacteria and Heterotrophic bacteria going in there.  By using ML/PL and ML/Nite-Out II, I was able to add the fish without doing any of the normal acclimational chemistry we are used to as hobbyists.  The Nitrifiers are in the Nite-Out II and my pond has adequate Total Alkalinity to support nitrification, so I have neither detectable ammonia nor nitrites after adding four good-sized koi.  The PL will assure that the filter maintains the cleanliness of the pond with the least amount of maintenance.  A couple of the fish missed their former feedings of freshly chopped shrimp (the old owner spoiled them nicely), but I offered them ML/Legacy Crustacean, Krill, and Kelp treats and everybody is thrilled in their new home.  See, I know how to spoil my koi, too!  They are receiving ML/Calcium Montmorillonite Clay with every feeding to assure good health and the cleanest colors, ML/Dried Silkworm Pupae to polish their skin, and anything else they need.  I have them in 0.3% ML/Quarantine Tank Salt after their long journey by car from Ft. Lauderdale to Cape Coral, in case anybody tore a fin or feels faint.  So, what’s new?  Just the fish!

I receive many calls from people wanting to know how to clear up their water and see the fish again.  Here’s what I tell them:  First, take a glass of this water, set it on the picnic table in the sun and look at it.  Does it have any color?  Is it green, tan, or does it have anything floating in it?  Then leave it alone for about 3 hours.  Come back and check to see if it is clear or if anything has settled out.

If: the glass is green tinted, then it’s algae and it is living, so PL won’t kill it.  At least it won’t kill it directly.  A UV light will help greatly.  Microbe-Lift/Algaway 5.4 will also help to remove the algae if it is that bad, but this type of algae generally takes a few applications because it reproduces very quickly.

If: the glass has any sediment on the bottom, then it just had suspended particulate matter, which can be flocculated out.  This generally occurs when the pump is inside the pond, pureeing the poop into pieces that are too small for the filter to remove, so it stays in the water.  Calcium Montmorillonite Clay will flocculate the particles with ionic attraction and take them out of the water column where it can be vacuumed out.  Flocculent Plus will also help to remove those particles.
If: the water in the glass still looks cloudy, then you probably need to add ML/Super-Activated Carbon to remove the liquefied impurities, such as tannins.

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
Providing Aquatic Solutions Since 1976

The pondless Pondlady is no longer pondless!  I have a veritable high-tech koi pond with all the bells and whistles.  One thing which is not generally considered standard issue for a koi pond, but is found in mine, is an escape ladder.  While attending a fish health seminar in Reno, NV, recently, I attended a lecture on bog filters.  At home, the pond was under construction.  The lecturer spoke about certain dangers in order to prove a point, that bog filters were invariably safer than traditional straight-sided koi ponds.  I had to agree with him, but mine was already straight-sided, 5’ deep, and reinforced with concrete.  I had the two bottom drains installed and in a couple of days the gunnite would be applied, etcetera.  This frightened me enough to walk outside and call the pond builder.  No, I didn’t order a bog filter, I ordered a ladder!  It would not be some nameless somebody who accidentally fell into my pond at some time in the future and could not get out because of the slippery sides (and being too fat to lift ones self out over the edge)… it would be me. So, with all the precautions we take to safeguard our ponds, our fish and insurance for our homes and families, I think a ladder is a small price to pay for a “REAL” koi pond.  After all, I have to be here to answer questions for you guys when you call… and I don’t think my fish are that stupid.  They will adapt to living with a ladder in their pond.

Malachite green when used in conjunction with 0.2 % salt concentrations and over can be toxic to Koi.  Remember that salt, although benign, should be used with caution when adding other chemicals.

Always clean your mechanical filters and keep the bottom of your pond clean. Air diffusers are an excellent method of aerating your water in the warm summer months, especially if they are helping circulate the dirty water into a bottom drain. Otherwise, try a trickle tower to remove toxic gases and add oxygen to the water.  Oxygen rich water is beneficial for Microbe-Lift bacteria and fish. 

Reprinted from Microbe-Lift Newsletter, publication of Ecological Laboratories, Inc.
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